Masks and Michoacan

We've made a major change of plans.The lead-up to the change goes something like this:

We had committed to a 2 week stay at a farm in San Miguel de Allende, to begin on the 27th of March. In the mean time, we'd hoped to visit Guanejuato, though staying in Zacatecas made more economic sense. During the drive to the La Quemada ruins, we began chatting with a middle aged couple that had finished a one month commitment on a Michoacan WWOOF farm, and they adored the experience. We were intrigued. We also met an elderly couple that had just returned from Guanejuato. They informed us that it's the best place they've been to in Mexico in all their years of travel. So...what to do?

Then we got back from the ruins and discovered that our San Miguel farm had cancelled our present engagement. Apparently they couldn't afford to support any volunteers, and we'd need to find other accomadations. "Oh!" we said. We concluded that God had created a new opportunity -- but for what we weren't sure. We decided to email the farm in Michoacan, expressing our great desire to visit. It's a farm quite similiar to Green Acres. It's run by a middle-aged couple, and the wife is a chef that teaches cooking classes. She also cooks every meal of the day (so no grocery bills). The owners have acres of gardens, fruits, and herbs. They cure their own bacon(!) and stuff their own homemade sausage. They have livestock, lots of dogs, and up to 8 volunteers. They're also within walking distance of one of the last two unpolluted deep lakes in Mexico. Sweet! We just knew this was where we were meant to be. Eagerly, we awaited their response.

The response was "No". They have no openings for the next 4 weeks, but they'd be willing to consider a commitment later in the year. We were crestfallen, but undeterred we applied to various backpacking hostels, and farms around Mexico we could work at. We had alot of options, but nothing seemed like a clear choice.

Then the Michoacan farm wrote back. They told us they "may" have an opening afterall because one couple was considering leaving early to Guatemala. They said to hang tight, that they'd contact us by Sunday. Then today they contacted us, saying "We have an openning, get on the bus tomorrow"! We are booked here tomorrow, but they agreed to have us come on Monday. What an adventure! We will be staying exactly one month in a little town right outside of Patzcuaro, Michoacan.
While all of this happened, though, we didn't stay idle. Earlier today we went to the Rafael Coronel mask museum. It's actually housed in a beautifully restored convent. Photographers prowled the grounds, snapping shots of newlyweds and glowing girls on their quincinera. We first viewed his paintings-- which were stunning. Here a picture of one of our favorites (it's large), sorry that the the photo's underlit:

You may notice there's a heavy emphasis on faces and masks in the painting. No surprise, as the artist owned an astounding mask collection, as well as 300+ marionettes. We enjoyed viewing the diverse, intricate, and frightening mask collection. Here are a few of our favorites:Afterward, while doing some final gift shopping, we stumbled upon an impromptu boxing match in the middle of a small plaza. A ring had been set up, and a sizable crowd had gathered. The competitors were ruthless, resilient, quick... and 9 years old. Yes, apparently Mexicans enjoy watching grade-schoolers beat eachother to a pulp in public (Who doesnt?). We stayed for five or six matches, and the competitors got progressively older, capping around 19 or so. As far as we could tell, there were only 2 or 3 rounds per match. There was a referee, and judges --and even the loser got a trophy (apparently their faces are less fragile than their self-esteem). If anyone ever drew blood, the match was over. Several matches ended within the first minute due to a bloodied nose; the bloodless boxer being the victor. There was lots of good natured heckling, cheering, and even chanting for the apparent-underdog. It was heartwarming to hear a chant of "Rojo! Rojo!" rise up from the crowd as Mr. Rojo was in fact taking the beating of a lifetime. It was a priceless experience.

Afterwards we went to the Acropalis for refreshments. It's a 50's-America themed-diner, complete with coke-floats, malted milk--and enchiladas! We enjoyed a strawberry-ice drink and a cappucino with Kalhua as we excitedly planned for our next trip.

It's a 9 hour bus ride from here to Patzcuaro (we can ride directly there). We will be able to check our emails in Michoacan regularly, but for blog posts and other internet uses (like phone calls) we need to go into town on our days off.

As I finish this post, I realize we're in for a long night. This afternoon, about 60 college students arrived from Guadalajara, filling the hostal to capacity. The main dorm area next door has become a very rowdy, very loud party, staged from the rooftop terrace. 80's music pounds through our windows and everyone is chanting loudly as their compatriates chug their drinks. That's the hostal experience for you, I guess. Julia's stuffed her ears with toilet paper. I imagine I'll do the same. Aaahh... sweet, sweet Mexico.

Lots of love,

Philip